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June 25, 2006

Tubular (sewn) cast off

Sometimes, you need to make a hem from the top down. For example, in the pattern for this hat. Or you could use it to encase elastic, or a drawstring for a little camera case such as I made for Mr Raitte. The method given below is just one way of making a hem from the top down, finished with a tubular (sewn) cast off. I haven't tried this cast off method with a 1x1 rib, but am sure it would work. Before you try this it would be a good idea to familiarise yourself with Kitchener stitch: this is the same technique but worked from one needle instead of two.

Also, this is much easier with one of those needles with a bent end, like the Clover ones.

First, here's how to make the hem:
Work in stocking stitch, ending with a WS (P) row.
Next row: K into front and back of every stitch (stitch count doubles).
Row 1: (WS) (K 1, slip 1 stitch with yarn held in front) to end of row.
Work as given for Row 1 for all rows until hem is desired depth, ending with a RS row.

You've created a hem. Here's what it looks like on the right side:
castoff01.jpg

And here's what it looks like on the wrong side:
castoff02.jpg

As you will have noticed when you were knitting the hem, you have essentially been knitting 'in the round', but on straight needles. Every two rows of the slipped hem stitches is equal to one round on dpns. If you were knitting a sock, now would be the time to Kitchener stitch the toe. Indeed, the sewn bound off we are about to work is exactly the same technique as Kitchener stitch, the only difference being that it is worked from one needle instead of from two. If you are comfortable with Kitchener stitch, you can use that technique here instead (first, you need to place alternate stitches on a spare double-pointed needle. All odd-numbered stitches (1, 3, 5 etc as numbered in the picture above) will be held on the needle at the front, and all even-numbered stitches held on the needle at the back).

To work the cast off from one needle, cut the yarn and leave a long tail. For very long cast offs, you can join in new lengths of yarn to continue the cast off, and weave in ends. I have used a contrast yarn to work the cast off in this example: you will of course use the same yarn as the hem is worked in.

First thread your needle.

castoff03.jpg
1. Pass sewing needle as if to knit through first stitch on knitting needle.

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castoff04.jpg
2. Pull thread through and let this first stitch drop off the knitting needle. 1 st cast off.

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castoff05.jpg
3. Bring the sewing needle in front of the first stitch on the knitting needle, and pass as if to purl through second stitch.

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castoff06.jpg
4. Pull thread through.

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castoff07.jpg
5. Bring sewing needle in front of work, and pass as if to purl through first stitch.

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castoff08.jpg
6. Pull thread through and let first stitch drop off the knitting needle. 1 st cast off.

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castoff09.jpg
7. Bring sewing needle behind work, and pass between first and second stitches on knitting needle. Pull thread through.

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castoff10.jpg
8. Pass needle as if to knit through second stitch on knitting needle.

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castoff12.jpg
9. Pull thread through.

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castoff13.jpg
10. Repeat steps 1 to 9 across all stitches. Weave in ends. Admire.

Posted by Amelia at June 25, 2006 10:29 PM

Comments

GREAT pics! i have a post for this all written up but the pics just weren't up to par. now i'll direct people to this post instead. i did mine in a 1x1 rib but it's really the same thing.

oh! and i love the knitted in hem. it's so clever compared to kitchnering a turned hem to the back of the work. there's no concern about picking up in a straight line -- all the sts are right there on the needle.

love it!

Posted by: jody at June 26, 2006 01:52 AM

Oh lovely--I was just wondering idly the other day about this, but hadn't put my brain to work properly on it yet. Thanks for doing it for me!

Posted by: Ashley at June 26, 2006 02:17 AM

Thanks for the helpful tutorial with lovely pics!

Posted by: lorinda at June 26, 2006 02:36 AM

Thank you for the handy tutorial, and with proper visual support! I am most anxious for your next pattern.

Posted by: Gina at June 26, 2006 02:47 PM

Thanks for that beautiful tutorial! I was trying to find directions for this the other day but had little luck with really clear directions and pictures.

Posted by: Sarah at June 26, 2006 08:33 PM

Thanks for a very clear tutorial. I have always knitted using the "combined method" and instructions using "knitwise" and "purlwise" have caused me to have problems translating the orientation of the needle and yarn. I'm printing out the page so I can practice using your method--but it seems so straightforward that I think I'll finally master the technique. There are books that cover this kind of edge using K1P1 ribbing, as in the "how-to" book by Katherine Buss. It would be an easy matter to convert your method to that kind of edge.

Posted by: marjorie at June 27, 2006 01:00 PM

thanks for the tutorial. even at this stage your knitting looks gorgeous. so inspiring.

Posted by: kathi at June 27, 2006 07:02 PM

Anna,

Can you please email me? I have a question about the Giotta sock pattern and can't find another way to contact you. Thanks!

Posted by: Judy at June 29, 2006 02:54 PM

Excellent job on the tutorial. Are you writing a book yet?

Posted by: Birdsong at July 2, 2006 05:11 PM

I looked at many other instructions for this stitch, but yours are the only ones I understood. Thank you for demystifying this!

Posted by: Carolyn J. at October 29, 2006 12:15 AM