December 08, 2006
Spindle socks
Working socks on 52 sts - in a heavier-than-usual yarn, on slightly larger needles - makes a substantial time saving. I'll be making another two pairs of these before Christmas. They're called spindle socks because the slipped cable stitch reminds me of those turned wooden stair spindles; it's the same cable stitch used for the Badcaul socks, adapted and rearranged for the lesser stitch count. Like the Badcauls, this stitch is perfect for cabling without a cable needle - which will also cut down on the time spent. A six round pattern repeat keeps things bowling along nicely.
Materials
Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino 50 g (125m/136 yards), 2 balls
2.75mm (US 2) circular needle 80 cm long (for magic loop), (or two shorter circulars or set of 5 dpns) or size to obtain correct guage.
Stitch marker
Cable needle (optional)
Tapestry needle for finishing
Size
To fit up to woman’s UK shoe size 8 (EU42, US 10.5), approx 23 cm (9 inch) circumference, slightly stretched.
Gauge
6.5 sts in stocking stitch (stockinette) to 2.5 cm (1 inch)
Abbreviations
Sl1: slip next stitch with yarn held at back of work
C3B: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work. K next st, K 2 from cable needle
C3F: slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work. K next 2 sts, K 1 from cable needle
k2tog: knit two stitches together
ssk: slip next two stitches as if to knit, return both to left needle, knit together (or use your preferred left-leaning decrease)
p2tog: purl two stitches together
tbl: through the back loop
Cable stitch pattern
Rnd 1: P 1, (K 3, P 1) 3 times. Rpt to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: As Rnd 1.
Rnd 3: P 1, (Sl 1, K 2, P 1) 3 times. P 1, (K 2, Sl 1, P 1) 3 times. Rpt to end of rnd.
Rnd 4: As Rnd 3.
Rnd 5: P 1, (C3F, P 1) 3 times. P 1, (C3B, P 1) 3 times. Rpt to end of rnd.
Rnd 6: As Rnd 1.
Instructions
Cast on 52 sts over two needles. Remove spare needle and divide sts between circular(s) or dpns and join for working in the round, taking care not to twist. Place marker to show beginning of round.
Work Rnds 1 and 2 only of cable stitch pattern until 14 rows total have been worked. Cont from Rnd 3 of cable stitch pattern until 7 cables have been worked, ending with Rnd 6.
Heel is worked back and forth over first 26 sts.
Heel flap: Row 1: (RS) (Sl 1, K 1) to end. Turn work.
Row 2: Sl 1, P to end.
Rpt these two rows 12 times more, ending with row 2: 26 rows worked: 13 slipped sts along each side of flap.
Turn heel: Row 1: (RS) K15, ssk, K1, turn.
Row 2: Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, K6, ssk, K1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, P7, p2tog, P1, turn.
Cont as set until all sts have been worked (don’t work single st after decrease in last two rows), ending with Row 2. (14 sts)
Gussets
(for two circs or magic loop) Knit across heel sts, and using the same needle pick up and knit 13 sts from slipped sts at side of heel flap, and 1 st in corner of heel flap and instep sts – 14 sts picked up.
Using second needle, work 26 instep sts in cable stitch pattern. Using same needle, pick up and knit 1 st in corner of heel flap and instep, and 13 sts from slipped sts at side of heel flap – 14 sts picked up. Slip the 14 sts just picked up to 1st needle: 42 sts on needle 1 (heel and gussets), 26 sts on needle 2 (instep).
Knit to end of first needle, then work across instep sts in cable stitch pattern. Place marker to show start of Rnd.
(for dpns) Knit 7 heel sts (needle 1). Using new needle (needle 2), knit 7 heel sts, then pick up and knit 13 sts from slipped sts at side of heel flap, and 1 st in corner of heel flap and instep sts – 14 sts picked up.
Using needle 3, work 26 instep sts in cable stitch pattern. Using needle 4, pick up and knit 1 st in corner of heel flap and instep, and 13 sts from slipped sts at side of heel flap – 14 sts picked up. With same needle, work 7 heel sts from needle 1.
Knit to end of needle 2, then work across instep sts in cable stitch pattern. Place marker to show start of Rnd.
Both versions:
K 1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of heel/gusset sts, k2tog, K 1. Work across 26 instep sts in pattern. 2 sts decreased. Work 1 rnd even. Rpt last 2 rnds until 52 sts rem.
Foot
Cont as set, working sole of foot in st st and instep in cable stitch pattern until foot measures 4 cm (1.5 inches) less than desired finished length, ending with Rnd 6.
Toe
K 1, ssk, K 20, k2tog, K 1. Rpt to end of rnd. 4 sts decreased (2 each on instep and sole).
Work 1 rnd even.
K 1, ssk, K 18, k2tog, K 1. Rpt to end of rnd. 4 sts decreased (2 each on instep and sole).
Work 1 rnd even.
Rpt last as set until 16 sts remain, then work decrease rnds only until 8 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a long tail.
Kitchener toe. Weave in ends.
Posted by Amelia at 05:55 PM | Comments (39)
July 02, 2006
Witterings
Witterings
© Anna Bell, 2006
All rights reserved
Foldable, washable, squashable, a graphic striped cotton sunhat with a deep floppy brim.
Skills
Stocking stitch, working in the round, increases, slipped stitches, kitchener stitch
Materials
DK Cotton, 50gm (85m). I used Rowan Handknit DK for the white and Jaeger Aqua for the black.
A (black) 2 balls
B (white) 2 balls
Set of 5 x 2.75 mm (US 2) dpns
2.75 mm (US 2) circular needle (80cm)
Stitch marker
150 cm (59 inches) 5mm cord
Laundry starch
80 cm (31 inches) millinary Petersham or grosgrain ribbon
toning sewing thread
tailor’s pins
Size
To fit womens’ size medium 57 cm (22.5 inches)
Gauge
After blocking, 6 sts to 2.5 cm (1 inch) knitted in the round.
Stitch instructions
St st: Stocking (stockinette) stitch (knit every row)
tbl: through the back loop
Kfb: Knit into front and back of stitch (1 st increased)
sl: slip
wyif: with yarn in front of work
Instructions
Working with cotton at a tight gauge is hard on the hands so take it gently, especially at the hem of the brim where the stitches are very cramped on the needle. Instructions state a tubular cast off for the neatest finish, butif you can't face all that sewing, a three-needle bind off will be effective.
Crown
With yarn A, cast on 8 sts and distribute evenly between 4 needles. Join for working in the round. Place stitch marker at beginning of first round and slip marker with each subsequent row. Work on dpns until needles become crowded, then change to circular needle.
Round 1: K all sts.
Rnd 2: (kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 16 sts. Join yarn B and work next 2 rows in B
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: (K 1, kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 24 sts. Change to yarn A
Rnd 5: K
Rnd 6: (K 2, kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 32 sts. Change to yarn B
Rnd 7: K
Rnd 8: (K 3, kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 40 sts. Change to yarn A.
Cont in stripes of two rounds, working 8 increases on second row of each stripe as set ending with an inc row of yarn B and 88 sts.
Cont with stripe sequence but now working increase rows on yarn B stripes only (every 4th round), ending with an inc row and 136 sts.
Cont in stripe sequence without shaping for 18 more rows (ending with yarn A).
Next round (yarn B): K all sts
Next round: K all sts tbl.
Change to yarn A and rpt last two rnds.
Inc rnd (yarn A): (Ktbl next 15 sts, kfb into next 2 sts). Rpt across all sts (16 sts increased). 152 sts.
Brim
Change to yarn B and revert to 2-round stripes for brim.
Round 1 and all odd-numbered rnds: K all sts.
Rnd 2: (K 18, kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 160 sts.
Rnd 4: (K 19, kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 168 sts.
Rnd 6: (K 20, kfb) across all sts (8 sts increased). 176 sts.
Cont in stripes of two rounds, working 8 increases on second row of each stripe as set until brim measures 8.5 cm (3.25 inches), ending with an inc row of yarn A. 272 sts.
Edge
Break off yarn B. With yarn A, Kfb into every stitch (544 sts). Turn work so wrong side is facing you. From here on you will work back and forth across the stitches, turning at the end of each row, instead of working in the round.
Row 1: (K 1, sl 1 wyif) across all sts.
Row 2: (K 1, sl 1 wyif) across all sts.
Rpt rows 1 and 2.
Leaving a long tail, break off yarn A and work tubular (sewn) cast off as shown here: http://autoscopia.com/amelia/archives/2006/06/tubular_sewn_ca.html
Finishing
Wet-block hat around circular form approx same diameter (or slightly less) than your head. This entails tying the base of the crown firmly around the form with string, and spreading the brim out flat around it.
When the hat is totally dry, cut millinery Petersham to fit comfortably around your head, plus a 2.5 cm (1 inch) overlap. Sew ends together to make hat band. Pin band in place on inside of crown, and sew in position along lower edge only.
You may choose to add more structure to the brim by threading 5mm cord through the hem opening. I used cotton laundry line: a plastic fibre core with woven cotton outer, and pinned a safety pin through the end to feed it through. Bind ends of cord tightly together and sew hem openings shut around join.
Apply laundry starch to brim only following manufacturer’s instructions.
For an even stiffer brim, you could use milinery wire which is designed for just this purpose, but that may mean you can no longer fold the hat.
Posted by Amelia at 01:23 PM | Comments (54)
May 03, 2006
By now
You will have seen that the new Magknits is up, and there is my small contribution, Argyle. Thank you Kerrie for another great issue, and for giving me the nudge I needed to work this one up as a pattern. I don't know about anyone else, but I find it's the really simple ones I wear most often.
The red was horrible to photograph, and I had only a small window of opportunity. If there's much call, I could try and persuade Mr Raitte (now returned) to take some more.
Posted by Amelia at 09:10 PM | Comments (15)
October 31, 2005
Holly
Holly, started 18 Sept 05 finished 26 Sept 05
Pattern: My own, available here
Yarn: Cashmerino Aran
Sexy. Sleek. Sophisticated. And that’s just my beautiful sister, Isy, who was kind and patient enough to model while I snapped.
Posted by Amelia at 01:00 PM | Comments (20)
August 29, 2005
Because you’re so good to me
Elfine’s socks, started 16 July 05, finished 4 Aug 05
Pattern: My own
Yarn: Shelridge Farm Soft Touch
You can download the pattern for Elfine’s leaf-lace socks (grown from the toe up, the season’s ‘must have’ hosiery for style-conscious wood-nymphs) here. View the work in progress (and the literary reference) here.
My pleasure. If you come across typos/errors, do let me know.
edit to add: If you prefer to knit lace from a chart, get in touch with Kathy at Kaffeinated Knits and she’ll send you one. Thanks Kathy!
Posted by Amelia at 04:45 PM | Comments (55)
June 01, 2005
Sally pattern
Some of you may be interested to know that the pattern for Sally is now available here.
THANK you to the wonderful Kerrie for publishing my very first pattern!
Posted by Amelia at 06:03 PM | Comments (20)
May 30, 2005
Tweed stitch belt
A couple of you asked me to spill the beans on the belt I've been working on. So here it is:
Rowan Handknit Cotton, two balls, contrasting colours
3.75mm needles
Cast on 13 sts
Row 1: *K1, slip 1 holding yarn to front (RS) of work, rep from * to last st, K1
Row 2: P2, *slip 1 holding yarn to back (RS) of work, P1, rep from * to last st, K1
Rep these rows. At the same time, change colour every four rows. Keep going until belt is as long as you want, or you run out of yarn. Tie nonchalantly.
Thank you all for your comments. I apologise that I owe you emails, and haven't been visiting recently. Have been fighting The Black Dog somewhat, but rallying now.
Posted by Amelia at 11:43 PM | Comments (11)